Climbing

Birthplace of Freeclimbing

How it all began

Climbing in the Saxon Switzerland region has been around for a long time. It has been documented for about 150 years. Many consider March 1864 to be the birth of Saxon climbing, when five gymnasts from Schandau conquered the Falkenstein using tree trunks and ladders. In 1874, two mountaineers from Pirna managed to climb the Mönch without any aids.

In 1910, the "Saxon Climbing Rules" were first written down. These have remained largely unchanged and include as their most essential element the "renunciation of artificial aids to overcome gravity". This idea has since spread around the world. Today it is called free climbing and is practiced in the USA, Australia, France, Spain, Thailand, and other countries around the globe.

Stages of Development

Between 1777 and 1890, the so-called early development of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains took place. It was characterized by ascents using artificial aids. Between 1890 and 1910, the main mountaineering development of the area followed. In addition to simple chimney climbing, crack and wall climbing were now included, making numerous new routes to previously unexplored peaks possible. This period produced climbing legends such as Oscar Schuster, Friedrich Meurer, Albert Kunze, Rudolf Fehrmann, Fritz Wiessner, or Oliver Perry-Smith.

After 1912 until before World War II, wall and crack climbs became even more risky and difficult, and climbers not only explored new peaks but also more challenging climbing routes. Significantly improved climbing techniques and safety methods led from around 1945 to around 1965 to the so-called final development, which is also referred to as the completion of classical Saxon mountaineering.

From then on, climbers explored increasingly extreme climbing routes in difficulty ranges VIII to XII. Bernd Arnold, Manfred Vogel, Jürgen Höfer, and Klaus Schäfer are representative figures for this period. Younger well-known extreme sportsmen of the 90s include, among others, Sven Scholz, Uwe Richter, or Gunter Gaebel.

Paradisiacal Backdrop

Climbing in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains is an indescribable experience. In the birthplace of free climbing, the joy of reaching the summit is spread across 1,134 freestanding sandstone rocks and an overwhelming natural backdrop.

In addition to the uniqueness of climbing within a national park, it is the area's own climbing rules and difficulty scale that make the summit experience so special for every climber. Anyone who has once reached a peak here cannot escape the magic of this climbing region.

The variety of sandstone creates unique natural experiences and allows free climbing in all its facets. With few restrictions due to nature conservation, climbers will find around 27,000 climbing routes covering all difficulties of the Saxon difficulty scale from I to XII.

Steile Felsklippen mit dichtem Wald und Tal im Hintergrund. — © Klaus Fengler

Saxon Climbing Rules

The Saxon Climbing Rules are demanding – and important, as they protect the soft, sensitive sandstone and significant habitats in the national park region. Metal protection devices, such as cams and nuts, are prohibited, and drilled rings are comparatively rare; only slings are allowed as protection.

The rope is used only for safety and rappelling. Unlike other climbing areas, securing routes is a particular art in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. Modifying the rock surface is prohibited – except when placing protection bolts on first ascents. Chemical aids, such as chalk, are not allowed. Additionally, climbing is prohibited on wet or brittle rock.

Special Features and Climbing Rules

Saxon Difficulty Scale

seasonally closed climbing peaks

Kletterer von hinten mit vielen Karabinern und Seilen am Klettergurt. — © Peggy Nestler

Climbing Areas

The Saxon Switzerland region is divided into several climbing areas, which differ in their rock composition or the type of climbing. The common climbing guides are divided according to these climbing areas. This makes orientation easier.

Overview of Climbing Areas

Peak and Trail Database

Bergverlag Rölke (Climbing Guides)

Kletterer an einer steilen Felswand, im Hintergrund steile Felsnadeln. — © Klaus Fengler

Learn from Professionals

Accidents while climbing almost exclusively occur due to ignorance, carelessness, or recklessness. Experienced climbing instructors from the region offer the full range of skills needed to master the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. Local mountain sports providers teach according to a uniform training guideline.

Kletterschule Lilienstein

Touristservice Bad Schandau

Kletterschule Ottendorfer Hütte

Bergführer Elbsandsteinklettern.de

Kletterschule Bergvagabündnis

Zwei Kletterer mit Helmen betrachten eine Karte auf einem Felsen, Landschaft im Hintergrund. — © Julia Haentzschel

Assistance on the go

Self-help boxes and emergency numbers

The self-help boxes are located in climbing areas, as well as on heavily frequented hiking trails. They contain a selection of first aid materials and transport means (folding stretchers and disposable blankets). They can be used by anyone if needed. It is expected that the stretcher will be returned. If this is not possible, the DRK district association Sebnitz (Tel. 035971 -7470) must be informed.

If assistance from the mountain rescue service is required, it can be requested via the emergency number 112. People unfamiliar with the area can find their location at the nearest signpost. On the back of each signpost, there is a yellow location number (see picture), which should definitely be given during an emergency call.

Grünes Wegweiserschild an einem Pfosten mit gelber Notrufstandortnummer. — © Yvonne Brückner

Person in blauem Helm hinter einem Netz im Kletterpark, lächelnd. — © Kletterwelten Elbsandstein

High Ropes Courses

A special treat for sporty adventure vacationers are two high ropes courses. Right next to the Königstein Fortress is the "Kletterwald Königstein". In this climbing forest for the whole family, there are 8 courses with 80 climbing elements and over 1,000 meters of climbing distance.

At Kanu-Aktiv-Tours, climbing enthusiasts can exert themselves on an indoor course with 18 elements, two eight-meter-high climbing towers, and a climbing wall.

Bunte Kletterwand mit Griffen in einer Indoor-Kletterhalle. — © Peggy Nestler

Climbing Halls

Whether for a taster session or intensive training... a total of 2 climbing halls in the Saxon Switzerland are available to all "rope climbing acrobats". Climbing can be done here individually or with experienced trainers. The YoYo additionally has a spacious bouldering area.