© Jacqueline Günther

Caspar David Friedrich

in the Saxon Switzerland

It is probably the most famous painting of German Romanticism: the "Wanderer above the Sea of Fog". It was created around 1818 by Caspar David Friedrich (1774-1840). Fairytale-like, mysterious and lively - this is how the landscape presents itself to the viewer. The painting is famous not only for its aesthetic qualities, but also because it symbolises the spirit of Romanticism.

The landscape depicted in the painting is Saxon Switzerland. For Friedrich, who spent most of his life in Dresden, the nearby rocky world was a place of longing, inspiration and refuge in a world that had fallen apart at the seams. The 250th anniversary of the artist's birth in 2024 is a good occasion to follow in his footsteps in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and offers an opportunity to reconnect with nature and the landscape in the spirit of the Romantic artist.

The artist Caspar David Friedrich & the time

© Hamburger Kunsthalle, bpk, Foto: Christoph Irrgang

Caspar David Friedrich was born in Greifswald in 1774, the sixth of ten children in a family of craftsmen. After studying at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen, Friedrich moved to Dresden at the age of 24, which at the time was a European art mecca with its important academy. For Friedrich, who spent most of his life in Dresden, the nearby rocky world of Saxon Switzerland was a place of longing, inspiration and refuge in a world that had fallen apart at the seams.

These were turbulent days - politically, socially, religiously and culturally. Industrialisation is rapidly changing people's living conditions, the Enlightenment is changing the world view. Napoleon and his troops carry the horrors of the French Revolution far into Europe. As a reaction to the new rationalism of the time, a new artistic movement emerges: Romanticism. A turn towards nature, the search for the metaphysical, introspection, the investigation of aesthetic principles: These are some of the characteristics of the new art. Dresden became an important centre for this and Caspar David Friedrich one of its most important representatives.

Caspar David Friedrich & Saxon Switzerland

© Iven Eißner

Threatening, mysterious and both terrifying and attractive: this is how Friedrich often depicted Saxon Switzerland in his paintings. He had found the ideal of a romantic landscape here. The perception of nature as a source of realisation: this was a defining theme for the painter throughout his life. Time and again he sought solitude and silence, not only to see nature and landscape, but to feel them. Pausing, contemplating, feeling: Caspar David Friedrich invites us to do just that.

The 250th anniversary of the artist's birth in 2024 is a wonderful occasion to follow his paths through the region and track down his favourite places.

The 10 most beautiful places in the footsteps of Caspar David Friedrich

Bastei

With its particularly impressive landscape, the Bastei area has always offered a wealth of motifs for artists. Caspar David Friedrich also immortalized it in some of his works. The oil painting “Rock Landscape” from 1823, for example, depicts the imposing rock group of the Neurathener Felsentor.

Hiking suggestionMalerweg stage 2

Find out more about the inspirational place Bastei

Uttewalder Felsentor

Depictions of the Uttewalder Felsentor marked a change in the way we viewed the landscape at the end of the 18th century: horror at the elemental power and menace of nature turned into delight at the picturesque romance of growth and decay. Caspar David Friedrich sought solitude in the area for several days and sketched the landscape. In 1821 he reported to the Russian poet W. A. ​​Shukowsky that he had once lived in the Uttewalder Grund "between rocks and fir trees" for a whole week and had not met a soul. In 1825 he processed the intense experience into his dark oil painting “Uttewalder Grund”.

Hiking suggestion:  Malerweg stage 1

Find out more about the inspirational place Uttewalder Felsentor

Krippen

When Dresden became a theater of war in March 1813 and the French ruler Napoleon occupied the city with 10,000 men, Friedrich decided to flee - to his beloved Saxon Switzerland. He finds shelter in a friend's house in the tranquil fishing village of Krippen. He knows the picturesque surroundings and the variety of motifs that present themselves here from previous visits. But the inner peace that the artist needs to work does not come for a long time. The events of the day are also keeping him busy here. A monument on Bächelweg has been commemorating the painter's time in Krippen since 2023. Based on historical signpost columns that once provided orientation for Romantic artists, the one and a half meter high sandstone stele marks the Caspar David Friedrich Trail that begins in Krippen.

Wandervorschlag:  Caspar-David-Friedrich-path

Find out more about nativity scenes as a place of inspiration

Burg Stolpen

With its silhouette visible from afar, the old Veste Stolpen also aroused the interest of the Romantics. Caspar David Friedrich visited Stolpen on 27 August 1820 and drew the freestanding, towering Coselturm in portrait format. ‘The towers too long.’ Friedrich noted on his sketch of the Coselturm that day. A gaping wound next to the tower. Here he drew the part of the complex that had been destroyed by Napoleon and his troops just a few years earlier. You can clearly see the gap in the wall and the rubble that was blasted out of it.  At the time, Friedrich made it his task to document the traces of Napoleon's destruction and drew them wherever he could.

Hiking suggestion: Walk through Stolpen

Find out more about Stolpen as a place of inspiration

Kaiserkrone

Caspar David Friedrich worked on the famous ‘Wanderer above the Sea of Fog’ around 1817. For the back figure, he needed a prominent rock on which to position the hiker. He used a rock on the ascent to the Kaiserkrone as a model. He must have discovered this rock on one of his hikes in Krippen in 1813. ‘The horizon is this high above the highest point of the rock’, he noted in the margin of the drawing “Felsige Kuppe”. Five years later, this sketch served as the model for his famous painting. Even though the rock is already at the foot of the Kaiserkrone, it is well worth climbing up to the top. The view is phenomenal!

Hiking suggestion:  Caspar-David-Friedrich-Path

Mehr über den Inspirationsort Kaiserkrone erfahren

Hohnstein & Polenztal

The year 1800 can be seen as the peak of Friedrich's Saxon Switzerland euphoria. The then 25-year-old travelled to the region at least five times that year. In addition to his multi-day adventure in Uttewalder Grund, Friedrich visited the area around Hohnstein at the beginning of July. The location of Hohnstein Castle alone makes it a picturesque sight. The immediate surroundings of the cliffs and deeply carved valleys attracted painters in the 18th and 19th centuries. Caspar David Friedrich was no exception!  At the beginning of July 1800, Friedrich stayed at Hohnstein, where he sketched the entrance to Hohnstein Castle on 8 July and the so-called ‘Schinderloch", an opening in the Bärengarten in Hohnstein that still exists today, the following day. Friedrich was impressed by its ruins and recorded the site in a pencil sketch.

He also travelled through the lovely Polenztal valley and discovered the imposing sandstone block overgrown with pine trees. Years later, he used the rock study in his painting ‘View of the Elbe Valley’. With artistic freedom, he lifted the colossus weighing several tonnes onto a vantage point and replaced the pines with spruces.

Hiking suggestion:Polenztalweg

Find out more about Hohnstein as a place of inspiration

Lilienstein

A flat plateau, almost vertical rock faces, a wooded base and open land all around. The 415 metre high Lilienstein is a striking sight. Caspar David Friedrich was also fascinated and drew the only table mountain on the right bank of the Elbe from various perspectives. Views from Rathen, Krippen and Prossen have survived. Whether he was also on the plateau of the Lilienstein cannot be said with certainty. In a sepia from around 1836, the Lilienstein makes one last major appearance in Friedrich's work - as the otherworldly destination of an arduous journey through life.

Hiking suggestion:From the spa town of Rathen via the Lilienstein and Prossen to Bad Schandau

 

Find out more about the Lilienstein place of inspiration

Amselgrund

Like the Gamrig, the Honigstein is also somewhat reminiscent of castle ruins. Although the striking formation is only hinted at in the background of Friedrich's watercolour ‘Rocks on a Forest Path’, created around 1810, it is decisive for the composition. The painter's location can be easily recognised by the perspective. It is the path through the Amselgrund, just before the Amselfall. In this picture, as in others of the time, you can see that Saxon Switzerland was much less densely forested at the beginning of the 19th century. Today, the Honigstein is mostly hidden behind tall trees.

Hiking suggestion:Malerweg Stage 2

Find out more about the Amselgrund place of inspiration

Kuhstall

Even in Caspar David Friedrich's youth, the ‘Kuhstall’, the largest rock gate in Saxon Switzerland, was a popular excursion destination. Nature lovers had rolled a block of stone into it as a table and someone had chiselled a cooking area into the rock,
There was a snack bar in summer and it was fashionable to write your name on the rock face. Brushes and ink were even provided for this! Both are forbidden today! Friedrich was also here several times. His drawing, created around 1818, was made during a hike with his wife and his friends Kummer and Carus.

Hiking suggestion: Up to the Kuhstall

Find out more about the place of inspiration Kuhstall

Pirna

Caspar David Friedrich repeatedly interrupted his work in his studio in Dresden to hike and draw in Saxon Switzerland. At least 19 stays are documented. He certainly often passed through the old Elbe gate at Pirna. He sketched it during one of his first encounters with it. The rest of the old town fortifications had already been used as a motif a few decades earlier by Bernardo Bellotto, gen. Canaletto, a few decades earlier. It was demolished in the middle of the 19th century.

Hiking suggestion:  Canalettoweg

Find out more about Pirna as a place of inspiration

Caspar David Friedrich & Saxon Switzerland

© Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Kupferstich-Kabinett Dresden, Foto: Herbert Boswank
© Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Kupferstich-Kabinett Dresden, Foto: Herbert Boswank

The artist probably became acquainted with the wildly romantic rocky world of Saxon Switzerland shortly after his arrival through other painters working at the academy, such as the Swiss Adrian Zingg. At that time, the discovery for tourism was still to come. It was not until 1804 that the first travel guide to the region appeared: Wilhelm Leberecht Götzinger's "Schandau und seine Umgebungen oder Beschreibung der sogenannten Sächsischen Schweiz".


Friedrich, already a freelance artist at the time, visited the region several times to hike and draw. There are records of visits in the summer of 1800, 1808 and 1812, and the painter with the distinctive whiskers even lived here for several months at a time from spring to summer 1813. In the tranquil village of Krippen on the Elbe, in the house of his friend Friedrich Gotthelf Kummer, he sought refuge from the war and Napoleon, whom he hated. Saxony is the main theatre of the wars of liberation. Prussians, Russians and French take turns passing through Dresden. The fateful Battle of the Nations at Leipzig is imminent. Creating peaceful landscape impressions in the year of war: This is difficult for the sensitive artist with a tendency towards melancholy, who also sees himself as a patriot and takes a passionate interest in political events. "I have been away from Dresden for more than 14 days and live here in a very pleasant area. The stay here could be very useful for me if the events of the time had not so completely upset my mind and made me unable to start anything," he writes in a letter to a friend on 31 March.

It was not until 1 June that he was able to start again: "After a long time, I drew the first one", he noted in a sketch of a group of trees. More drawings followed, and the "Krippen Sketchbook" was created. 22 of the works created at that time have been preserved. They are filigree and astonishingly detailed depictions of rocks, trees and panoramas. Later he drew on this fund for his paintings. On 3 June 1813, at the foot of the Kaiserkrone table mountain, about an hour and a half's hike from Krippen, he put the drawing "Felsige Kuppe" on paper. It is the very rock on which he places his "Wanderer above the Sea of Fog" in his studio a few years later. Other mountains and rocks from earlier sketches from May 1808 can also be found in the picture: the Gamrig near Rathen or the Rosenberg in Bohemian Switzerland. In nature, these mountains are not united in one panorama. Friedrich is not concerned with the reproduction of an actual landscape, a concrete moment, but with a certain impression, an inner feeling. Religion, metaphysics, nature mysticism, psychology: all these resonate in Friedrich's works.

Hiking in the footsteps of Caspar David Friedrich

© Philipp Zieger

Even in Caspar David Friedrich's time, Dresden artists knew the most impressive valleys and gorges and the paths to them. Friedrich also used these paths. Today's Elbe Sandstone Mountains Malerweg (Painters' Trail) follows many of these historic paths. Hikers can discover the Uttewalder Grund, the Neurathener Felsentor, the Kuhstall and many more of Caspar David Friedrich's motifs along the 116-kilometre long-distance hiking route.  

The Caspar David Friedrich Trail commemorates Friedrich's ‘Flight to Krippen’ in 1813. The trail, which is around 15 kilometres long in total, leads from Krippen along the Mittelhangweg to Schöna with the Kaiserkrone and then over the Wolfsberg and through Reinhardtsdorf back to the starting point. The drawings in the ‘Krippen Sketchbook’ show that the artist must also have travelled along this route.

Facts about the Caspar David Friedrich Trail

5 h

Walking time - The time given is based on average experience. If you want to pause every now and again during the tour in the spirit of the Romantics and let nature take its full effect on you, then allow a little more time.

12 Information boards

along the Caspar David Friedrich Trail show the drawings by Caspar David Friedrich made at the respective locations.

15 km

Route - Highlights along the route include the Mittelhangweg, the Kaiserkrone, the panoramic view from Wolfsberg and the Caspar David Friedrich Stele in Krippen.

395 hm

Elevation gain - This is a mostly easy and scenically varied day tour. There are climbs on the Mittelhangweg, Aschersteig and the Kaiserkrone. You will be rewarded time and again with breathtaking views!

Walks and places of inspiration in the footsteps of Caspar David Friedrich

Caspar David Friedrich & Bohemian Switzerland

© Iven Eißner

In May 1808, Caspar David Friedrich set out on a hike in Bohemian Switzerland. His goal was the Prebischtor area in order to see the Rosenberg and Kaltenberg up close. He was on the road for three days and drew four sketches on a piece of paper. Friedrich had climbed the Winterberg, crossed the Bohemian border and continued walking in the direction of Prebischtor. That was the usual route of the Fremdenweg at that time.

Events in the Caspar David Friedrich anniversary year 2024

On romantic paths in and around Pirna

31.08. to 03.11.24

Stadtmuseum Pirna© Achim Meurer

A special exhibition entitled ‘Topography of Desire - In the Footsteps of Caspar David Friedrich’ will be on display at the StadtMuseum Pirna. The illustrious show is dedicated to today's examination of the artist's time and finds itself in the unique arc of tension between early Romanticism and the realism of our era. Four accompanying events form the supporting programme for this special exhibition, for which a catalogue will also be published.

"Hiking companions - in the footsteps of the romantics in Saxon Switzerland"

© Amac Garbe

On January 27, 2024, the special exhibition “Hiking Companions - Following in the footsteps of the Romantics in Saxon Switzerland” opens in the Peter Ulrich House. Based on the hiking guide by Veith & Engelhardt "Mahlerische Wanderen", according to which Caspar David Friedrich planned his hikes, romantic pictures from Tom Pauls' private collection will be on display.

CDFriedrich inspiriert

from January 2025

© Frank Höppner

Caspar David Friedrich loved the wildly romantic rocky world not far from the city of Dresden. He repeatedly wandered through nature, seeking solitude and drawing rocks, mountains, trees and ruins. Now, for the first time, there is an exhibition in Saxon Switzerland about the famous romantic, who would have celebrated his 250th birthday in 2024. The immersive show “CDFriedrich inspires” is both a multimedia monument and a virtual gallery. With room-filling video projections, she invites visitors to encounter the painter and his work, to see the landscape through his eyes and to understand the creative process - from the sketch to the painting.

from January 2025 in the guest's house in Bad Schandau

Guided painting tours with the artist Andrea Molière

Andrea Molière im Atelier© Agentur Projekt 40 Jeanette Koch

The artist Andrea Molière, who runs the studio on the Malerweg „molière artdesign“ in Lohmen in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, offers themed painting courses for all age groups in small individual groups under her artistic guidance in German and English. The modern, artistic linking of nature and historical painting locations is intended to enable unique experiences and adventures. Special Caspar David Friedrich painting courses are being planned for 2024. The artist will invite small groups of no more than four people to take part in guided painting tours lasting from one to five days. All the necessary utensils are included, from a painting backpack as a seat and a mobile easel to watercolour paper, brushes and paints.


There is an extensive range of courses in 2024, which can be requested directly from the artist. Her rocky, wooded and gorge-rich surroundings along the Malerweg in the heart of the Saxon Switzerland National Park have long inspired her to also walk in the footsteps of Caspar David Friedrich and record her impressions on paper in her own unique way.

Experience Caspar David Friedrich in Dresden

© Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Galerie Neue Meister

Finally, a visit to Dresden is also part of walking in Friedrich's footsteps in the region. The Dresden State Art Collections show one of the largest Friedrich collections in Germany in the Galerie Neue Meister with 14 paintings by the artist.

The Kügelgenhaus – Museum of the Dresdner Romanticism gives an impression of the era in Dresden in the former home of the painter Gerhard von Kügelgen, a friend of Caspar David Friedrich, and presents the lives and works of the most important artistic personalities working in Dresden at the time, including Caspar David Friedrich.

It appears that you are using Microsoft Internet Explorer as your web browser to access our site.

For practical and security reasons, we recommend that you use a current web browser such as Firefox, Chrome, Safari, Opera, or Edge. Internet Explorer does not always display the complete content of our website and does not offer all the necessary functions.