Enchanted Trails - Hiking in the Valleys and Valleys Around Hohnstein

Oh, it looks like we’ve just barged right into a gathering of forest spirits. It’s easy to imagine that until just a moment ago, there were dwarves, elves, fairies, mermaids, and trolls here—where now countless little stone towers stand in rock crevices and on boulders. They’re probably biding their time in their hiding places until we intruders finally move on. In any case, the place and time would be ideal for a gathering of these shy creatures. The Gautschgrotte, not far from Hohnstein, is a magical place right now, on an early July morning. And we have it all to ourselves.

Rock walls about 20 meters high form a natural amphitheater, a surprisingly dramatic highlight at the end of an overgrown path. The impressive formation, before which we feel tiny, commands respect and hushed voices. Only the dripping of the small trickle—which turns into a roaring waterfall after rain and freezes into a monumental ice column in some winters—breaks the silence.

The solitude is the reward for setting out early. Soon, the magic of the night—the last remnants of which still hang among the trees as morning mist—will have completely faded away. And this fairy-tale realm will once again have transformed entirely into the Saxon Switzerland National Park, opening its doors to nature lovers and forest enthusiasts, hikers and strollers alike. The search for romance, for the eerie and beautiful, has brought us here. And it seems we’ve found both right away. From the castle town, our hike will take us into the Polenz Valley and then up to the Brand rock plateau, the “Balcony of Saxon Switzerland.” We made a short detour to the Gautschgrotte.

The valleys, gorges, and ravines of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains form the antithesis to the spectacular rock formations, the table mountains, basalt cones, and lookout points. Bastei, Königstein, Lilienstein, Pfaffenstein, and Schrammsteine are famous calendar motifs and popular destinations. In comparison, the valleys lead a shadowy existence. This is because their true charms are difficult—if not impossible—to capture in a photograph. The mountains make an impression even in photos and paintings thanks to their striking aesthetics. The “Gründe,” on the other hand, captivate primarily through the diversity of sensory impressions that can only be experienced on site: the coolness of the air, the scent of the forest, the murmur of the streams.

Hiking in the “Gründe” is something for connoisseurs—and a pleasure practically all year round. Attentive hikers discover that every “Grund,” every valley, and every gorge has its own signature, its own unmistakable character.

We experience this firsthand on our tour. The Schindergraben, which connects Hohnstein with the Polenztal, reveals itself to be rugged, wild, and beautiful. Several small bridges span the crystal-clear stream. From nature trail signs along the way, you’ll learn, among other things, that the ground flora here is more species-rich than is usual in sandstone terrain and that rare fern species, as well as an especially large number of mosses and lichens, thrive here. That’s probably what makes the air here so indescribably crisp.

From the Schindergraben, we enter the Polenz Valley. It’s almost as if you’re turning from a jungle trail onto a leisurely promenade. Whereas the path was just moments ago shady and bumpy, it is now sunny, wide, level, and family-friendly. The impressive rock faces are widely spaced here. The initially earthy scent soon gives way to the mild, woody scent of the forest. The Polenz has carved out a picturesque valley and a wide, flat riverbed. Today, the stream glistens peacefully and invitingly in the morning sun. The lush green and densely vegetated rock slopes on the northeast side are fascinating. Healthy mosses, ferns, grasses, shrubs, and trees are abundantly nourished by water trickling down gently and steadily. This enchanting valley has been a nature reserve since 1940. White-throated dippers, grey wagtails, white-throated wagtails, bats, and butterflies thrive here. The snowdrop meadows in the northern part of the Polenz Valley have gained nationwide fame. They form one of the largest wild populations of this bellflower species in all of Saxony. Its blooming season, from early March to early April, attracts visitors from near and far to the region every year.

Shortly past the historic Waltersdorf Mill with its cozy beer garden, we cross the stream and soon leave the valley behind, heading toward Brand. The trail takes us through the Schulzengrund. The ascent is steady but manageable. After all, there’s a elevation difference of nearly 180 meters between the Polenz and the rocky plateau. When we pause briefly after about 15 minutes, we suddenly notice how indescribably quiet it has become around us. Somewhere in the distance, a blackbird sounds the alarm; the leaves rustle softly; a few insects buzz. Otherwise, absolute silence.

For city dwellers, this is a sensation. We instantly fall in love with this unassuming little spot in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. And the concept of a national park reveals itself to us in all its wonderful scope. Here in its core zone, we experience the national park not only as a sanctuary for endangered species, but also as an oasis for endangered sensibilities. Where the noise of progress falls silent, we can once again listen to the soft sounds of what truly matters.

Happy and content, we finally arrive at the Brand, where the first day-trippers are already settling in for their midday snack. Here, we’re treated once again to a magnificent panoramic view of the Polenz Valley, which we briefly enjoy before setting off on our return journey to Hohnstein. We’re not in the mood for hustle and bustle right now. Instead, we’d rather let the experience of nature linger a little longer. The final stretch of the loop hike is a wide, paved forest trail with no significant inclines. At the Eiche parking lot and bus stop, our loop comes full circle.

A few days later, we learn that there are people who firmly believe that the Elbe Sandstone Mountains are home to numerous so-called “places of power”—places where the “energy of the earth” converges and where one’s perception of nature is said to be particularly intense. If that’s true, then we discovered a few of them on our hike.